Sendai
The green "City of Trees" and gateway to the north
Go because it's the relaxed, leafy capital of the north — an easy, welcoming base for exploring one of Japan's least-touristed and most rewarding regions.
Come for tree-lined boulevards and a laid-back city mood; for the legacy of the great warlord Date Masamune, who founded the city; for the spectacular Tanabata Festival each August, when the streets fill with giant paper streamers; and for superb food, from grilled beef tongue to fresh Tōhoku seafood. The natural launch point for Matsushima, Hiraizumi and beyond.
Sendai is the largest city in Tōhoku, yet it wears its size gently — a spacious, green place of wide zelkova-lined avenues that earned it the nickname "City of Trees." For most travellers it's the gateway to the north: the bullet train's northern hub, and the obvious base for the picturesque bay of Matsushima and the golden temples of Hiraizumi. But it's a pleasant stop in its own right, with a proud samurai heritage, a lively food scene, and one of Japan's three great summer festivals.
A little background
Sendai was founded in 1600 by Date Masamune, the one-eyed warlord known as the "one-eyed dragon," one of the most powerful and cultured lords of his age. He built the castle and laid out the city, and encouraged residents to plant trees — the origin of its green character. In 2011 Sendai and the wider Tōhoku coast were struck by the great earthquake and tsunami; the city has since rebuilt, and travelling here supports a region that has worked hard to recover.
What to see
The Tanabata Festival. Held 6–8 August, Sendai's version of the "star festival" is the most famous in Japan — the shopping arcades hung with enormous, colourful paper-and-bamboo streamers, drawing millions.
Zuihōden. The ornate, richly decorated mausoleum of Date Masamune, set among tall cedars — a vivid glimpse of the splendour of his age.
Sendai Castle site (Aoba Castle). The hilltop castle ruins, with a statue of Masamune on horseback and sweeping views over the city.
The food. Sendai is famous for gyūtan (grilled beef tongue), zunda (sweet edamame paste) and the seafood of the nearby coast — reason enough to linger over dinner.
How to get there
Sendai is fast and easy from the capital: the Tōhoku Shinkansen reaches it from Tokyo in about 1.5–2 hours. It's the transport hub of the region, with onward trains to Matsushima (about 40 minutes), Hiraizumi, Aomori and the rest of the north. The city centre is walkable, with a subway and a tourist loop bus for the main sights.
When to go & practical notes
Early August for the Tanabata Festival (book well ahead); spring and autumn are lovely and comfortable for the green city and its surroundings. Winters are cold but far less snowy than the mountains or Hokkaidō. Sendai works best as a base — a day for the city, then day trips out to Matsushima and Hiraizumi — so factor it into a northern loop rather than a single stop.