Nara

Japan's first capital — a giant Buddha and a thousand deer

Nara was Japan's first permanent capital, the seat of the imperial court through most of the eighth century — a brief, brilliant era that gave the country some of its most important Buddhist monuments before the capital moved on to Kyoto. What makes Nara such a joy to visit is how much of that grandeur survives, and how tightly it clusters. Temples, shrine and museum sit together in one great green park, and through it all wander the famous deer — tame, ancient, and considered messengers of the gods. You can see the headline sights on foot in a few unhurried hours, which makes Nara the easiest and one of the most rewarding escapes in Kansai.

A little background

For most of the 700s, Nara — then called Heijō-kyō — was the capital of Japan, and the place where Buddhism became a power in the land. It was Emperor Shōmu who ordered the casting of the Great Buddha in the mid-eighth century, as a prayer for a country beset by plague and unrest, marshalling a vast share of the nation's resources to do it. When the capital moved to Kyoto in 794, Nara was left behind — and so, happily, were its monuments, eight of which now form a UNESCO World Heritage listing. The deer have been protected here for over a thousand years; until 1637, killing one was a capital crime.

What to see

Tōdai-ji and the Great Buddha. The centrepiece: a 15-metre bronze Buddha, cast in the 8th century, seated in the vast Daibutsuden hall — one of the largest wooden buildings in the world. Enter through the mighty Nandaimon gate, guarded by two 8-metre Niō figures, the finest wooden sculptures of their kind. Behind the Buddha, a pillar with a hole at its base: squeeze through and enlightenment is said to follow.

The deer of Nara Park. Some 1,200 wild sika deer roam freely, and many have learned to bow for the shika senbei crackers sold around the park. They're tame but wild — feed them calmly, keep maps and tickets tucked away, and give the antlered stags room in the autumn rut.

Kasuga Taisha. A vermilion Shinto shrine at the foot of a primeval forest, famous for the thousands of stone and bronze lanterns that line its paths — lit twice a year for the Mantōrō festivals. The lantern-lined approach through ancient cedars is among the loveliest walks in Nara.

Kōfuku-ji. An easy first stop from the station, its five-storey pagoda one of the tallest in Japan, its treasure hall home to celebrated Buddhist sculpture.

Nigatsu-dō and the gardens. Climb the steps to Nigatsu-dō hall for the best view over the city, quiet even when the Buddha hall is busy. Nearby, the Isuien and (free) Yoshikien gardens offer a calm, beautiful pause from the crowds.

How to get there

Nara is one of the easiest day trips in Japan. It's about 35–45 minutes from both Kyoto and Osaka by train — the Kintetsu line (to Kintetsu-Nara, right by the park) is the most convenient, with JR an alternative. Either city makes an equally good base; many travellers stop in Nara for an afternoon between Kyoto and Osaka on a travel day. From Kintetsu-Nara it's a short, pleasant walk through the park to the temples.

When to go & practical notes

Spring (cherry blossom) and autumn (foliage) are gorgeous in the park, but busiest; summer is hot and humid, winter crisp and quiet with a magical mood when snow dusts the deer and temples. The single best tip is to arrive early — by 8–9am — to see the Great Buddha and the deer before the tour groups and school trips arrive around ten. Allow a half day for the essentials (Tōdai-ji, deer, Kōfuku-ji) or a full day to add Kasuga Taisha, a garden and Nigatsu-dō at their unhurried best. An overnight — rarer, but rewarding — gives you the park at dawn and dusk, empty of day-trippers.