Nagano
A great temple, snow monkeys and the Japanese Alps
Go because it pairs one of Japan's most important temples with some of its finest mountain country — and the world-famous bathing snow monkeys.
Come for Zenkō-ji, a magnificent 1,400-year-old temple that draws pilgrims from across Japan; the snow monkeys of Jigokudani, who soak in a steaming hot spring amid the snow; and easy access to the Japanese Alps — hiking and onsen in summer, superb skiing in winter (these were the 1998 Winter Olympics slopes).
Nagano city grew up as a temple town, and its great temple remains its soul — but the wider region is really about the mountains. Ringed by the high peaks of the Japanese Alps, this is a place of pilgrimage and of the outdoors: of sacred halls and mountain trails, of hot springs steaming in the snow, and of the strange, delightful sight of wild monkeys bathing in a natural onsen while snow settles on their heads. For anyone drawn to Japan's mountain side, Nagano is the gateway.
A little background
Nagano owes its existence to Zenkō-ji, founded in the seventh century to house what is said to be the first Buddhist image ever brought to Japan. Because the temple belongs to no single sect, it has welcomed all pilgrims for over a thousand years, and the town grew up to serve them. In modern times the surrounding mountains made Nagano a winter-sports capital — it hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics — and the region's hot springs and high trails draw walkers and skiers alike.
What to see
Zenkō-ji. One of Japan's most important and atmospheric temples. Don't miss the "key to paradise" — a pitch-dark passage beneath the main hall that you feel your way along in search of a hidden lock.
The snow monkeys of Jigokudani. At the Jigokudani Monkey Park, wild Japanese macaques bathe in a hot-spring pool — most photogenic in winter, when snow frames the scene. Reached by a walk through the forest from the trailhead.
Matsumoto Castle. A little way off but well worth it: one of Japan's finest original castles, its striking black keep ("the Crow Castle") reflected in its moat.
The mountains and onsen. The region is a base for the Japanese Alps — hiking and hot-spring towns like Nozawa Onsen in the warmer months, world-class powder skiing (Hakuba, Shiga Kogen) in winter.
How to get there
Nagano is fast and easy from the capital: the Hokuriku Shinkansen reaches Nagano from Tokyo in around 1.5 hours. The snow monkeys and mountain resorts lie beyond the city, reached by local train and bus (allow a half to full day for the monkeys). Matsumoto is about 50 minutes to an hour from Nagano by train.
When to go & practical notes
Winter is prime time for both the snow monkeys (at their best in the snow) and the skiing. Summer is cool and green — ideal for hiking and escaping the lowland heat — while spring and autumn bring blossom and colour to the temple and hills. The snow monkey park involves a 1.5–2 km forest walk from the car park, so wear proper footwear, especially on snow and ice. The region's sights are spread out, so plan around one or two anchors (temple + monkeys, or a mountain base) rather than trying to do everything.