Matsuyama
A hilltop castle and Japan's oldest hot spring
Go because it pairs one of Japan's finest original castles with its most storied hot spring — and makes the perfect, relaxed base for western Shikoku.
Come for Matsuyama Castle, a genuine hilltop fortress reached by chairlift or cable car; for Dōgo Onsen, one of the oldest bathhouses in Japan and the inspiration for the bathhouse in Spirited Away; and for the retro Botchan train, mikan oranges and an easy, friendly pace. The natural gateway, too, to the Shimanami Kaidō bike route just up the coast.
Matsuyama is the largest city on Shikoku, and one of the most likeable — a relaxed castle town on the Inland Sea coast that rewards a slow day or two. Its two great sights sit at opposite ends of a short tram ride: a superb original castle crowning the hill at the city's heart, and, out in the Dōgo district, a hot spring so ancient it appears in Japan's oldest chronicles. Between them runs a nostalgic little train and a covered arcade of mikan-flavoured everything. It's the kind of place that eases you into the gentler rhythm of Shikoku.
A little background
Matsuyama grew around its castle, built in the early 1600s and — unusually — surviving with its original wooden keep intact, one of only a handful in Japan to do so. The city's other claim is far older: Dōgo Onsen is said to be one of the oldest hot springs in the country, mentioned in the 8th-century Nihon Shoki, and its grand 1894 bathhouse has drawn everyone from the imperial family to the novelist Natsume Sōseki, whose comic novel Botchan is set in the city. That literary connection still colours Matsuyama, from the Botchan train to the clock by the baths.
What to see
Matsuyama Castle. One of Japan's twelve surviving original castles, crowning a hill in the city centre with fine views over the city and sea. Reach it by a scenic chairlift or ropeway, then explore the handsome wooden keep and grounds.
Dōgo Onsen. The historic bathhouse — a rambling, many-gabled wooden building topped with a white heron — where you can bathe as travellers have for centuries. The surrounding district has ryokan, footbaths, the Botchan Karakuri clock, and an arcade of local treats.
The Botchan train. A charming replica of the 19th-century steam locomotives that once served the city, trundling between the centre and Dōgo Onsen — a ride as much as a transport.
Ishite-ji. Temple 51 of the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage, a short walk from Dōgo Onsen — an atmospheric introduction to the island's great pilgrim trail, with a cave of Jizō statues behind.
How to get there
There's no shinkansen to Shikoku, so Matsuyama is reached by limited-express train (about 2.5 hours from Takamatsu, the island's main gateway), by air (short flights from Tokyo and Osaka to Matsuyama Airport), or by ferry across the Inland Sea. Around town, the Iyotetsu tram links the station, castle and Dōgo Onsen (note it's not covered by the All-Shikoku Rail Pass — carry small change).
When to go & practical notes
Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons; summers are humid, with typhoons possible into September. Matsuyama rewards a relaxed overnight, ideally in a Dōgo Onsen ryokan so you can bathe in the evening and early morning. Remember standard onsen etiquette: wash thoroughly before entering, and no towels or long hair in the water. A day and a night comfortably covers the castle, the onsen and the Botchan train.