There is a narrow-gauge steam railway in the Dandenong Ranges, 40 kilometres east of Melbourne, that has been running in one form or another since 1900. It survived closure campaigns, floods, and the general indifference of the 20th century, and today carries around 350,000 passengers a year through mountain ash forest and fern gullies, past timber stations that look as though the Edwardians simply stepped away for a moment. Puffing Billy is, on paper, a tourist attraction. In practice it is one of the more quietly remarkable things you can do within a day’s reach of Melbourne.
Our Experience
We did this at the end of the Australian summer. We booked tickets online in advance: return trip from Belgrave to Lakeside worked out at A$64 per adult (March ’26 prices — children and concessions pay less). We arrived by car at Belgrave and used the main Belgrave station car park. Puffing Billy leaves from a nearby station (about quarter of mile away). There’s a safe path between the two stations. Although we bought tickets online, we still had to queue to collect them before boarding the train. That was probably the most irritating bit. It wasn’t clear where we should queue. This could have been smoother with better information and assertiveness on the part of the staff organising things.
Our ticket assigned us to a specific carriage. The seats are pretty basic, but the views? Elite. If you’re brave (and flexible), you can sit on the carriage edge with your legs dangling outside — which is kinda iconic and photo-worthy.
A conductor in full uniform blew a whistle to signal the start of the train journey.
The ride to Lakeside took about an hour The train rolled through hillsides, past people’s back gardens, through lush green rainforest ferns, across roads and old stations, and over wooden bridges. Steam drifted past the carriage and we could see the engine rounding the curves ahead. People waved from their gardens, cars stopped at crossings, random strangers just waved, cheered and took photos. Closing our eyes we could hear the engine working hard up hills, hear its relief as it sped downhill, whistle blowing to announce us, crossing bells ringing in reply. It’s a wholesome time-travel moment.
At Lakeside, we watched the refill the engine’s boilers – water, shovels of coal into the furnace, and the release of dramatic clouds of steam. It was like a movie scene. There’s cafe at Lakeside. We had lunch there and then walked down to the nearby lake until it was time for the return journey. The ride back? Just as magical. The pleasure doubled.
Worth It?
From the outside: yes, emphatically, for anyone who has half a day to spare from Melbourne. It is the kind of thing that sounds like a minor addition to an itinerary and turns out to be a highlight. The steam, the forest, the period carriages, and the particular pleasure of watching the Dandenong Ranges pass at the speed of 1900 — it is unlike anything else available within reach of the city. I was left very impressed with the place. There’s attention given to the detail; the schedule; the uniforms, the polish and recently painted station buildings – a lot of love is being shown to Puffin’ Billy. And that’s how it should be.
thinking of Riding Puffin’ Billy?
The railway: Puffing Billy runs from Belgrave (the end of the suburban rail network from Melbourne) through Menzies Creek, Emerald, and Lakeside to Gembrook. The full journey one way takes approximately 2 hours 20 minutes. Most visitors do a partial run — Belgrave to Emerald (around 1 hour) is the most popular — or ride one way and return by bus.
Getting to Belgrave: Take the Belgrave line from Flinders Street Station in the Melbourne CBD. Journey time is approximately 1 hour 15 minutes. Trains run frequently. This is the easiest option and avoids any parking complications.
Booking: Strongly recommended, particularly on weekends, school holidays, and during the steam-gala events when heritage locomotives draw larger crowds. Book online at puffingbilly.com.au. Walk-up tickets are available but can sell out on busy days.
Cost (approximate, 2026):
- Belgrave to Gembrook (full line, one way): approximately AUD $85 adult / AUD $50 child
- Belgrave to Emerald (one way): approximately AUD $60 adult / AUD $38 child
- Return fares and family tickets are available — check the website for current pricing
- The Heritage Locomotive experiences (riding in the cab, footplate rides) are priced separately and book up well in advance
When to go: The railway operates most days year-round, with some maintenance closures — check the website before booking. Autumn (March–May) is particularly beautiful as the deciduous trees along the route turn colour. The Dandenong Ranges are cooler than Melbourne itself and can be misty on winter mornings, which adds rather than detracts from the atmosphere. Summer is busy; school holiday periods (January especially) should be booked well ahead.
How long to allow: Half a day minimum for a Belgrave–Emerald–Belgrave run with time to look around Emerald or Menzies Creek. A full day if you are going to Gembrook and combining with lunch or a walk in the Ranges.
Why not combine it with other things: The Dandenong Ranges have good walking tracks (Kokoda Track Memorial Walk, Sherbrooke Forest) and several well-regarded restaurants and cafes, particularly around Olinda and Sassafras. Emerald Lake Park (adjacent to Lakeside station) is good for families. William Ricketts Sanctuary — an unusual outdoor sculpture garden — is nearby.