Great Wide Open

Travel guides and transformative journeys

Visiting the USA

The United States is not one country in any meaningful travel sense. It is a continent-sized collection of climates, cultures, landscapes, and cities, loosely held together by a common language and a highway system, and the gap between New Orleans and Seattle, or between Manhattan and rural Montana, is greater than the gap between most countries in Europe. Planning a trip to the US requires a decision about which America you are visiting — because you cannot see all of it, and trying to will leave you exhausted and under-impressed by everything.
What follows is our coverage of the places we have actually been to. We have visited a wide range of American cities and small towns and, together, completed three cross-country cycling journeys — Astoria (Oregon) to Yorktown (Virginia), Vancouver (British Columbia) to San Diego, and San Diego to St Augustine (Florida). These are experiences that give a perspective on the country that no amount of city-hopping can replicate. The city guides draw on those visits; the cross-country rides have their own pages in the Experiences section.

Geography - which america are you visiting?

The continental United States spans roughly 4,500 kilometres east to west and 2,500 kilometres north to south, with Alaska and Hawaii adding further variety. For practical purposes, visitors tend to plan around one of several broad regions:

The Northeast — New York, Boston, Washington DC, Philadelphia, and the cities of the Atlantic seaboard. Dense, historic, walkable, and well-served by rail. New York is the entry point for most international visitors.

The South — New Orleans, Nashville, Memphis, Atlanta, Savannah, Miami. A distinct cultural identity, extraordinary food traditions, music history, and a climate that ranges from subtropical to genuinely tropical.

The West Coast — Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Diego. A long strip of Pacific coastline connecting very different cities, linked by one of the world’s great road trips (Highway 1 along the California coast).

The Southwest — Las Vegas, Phoenix, the national parks (Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce Canyon, Monument Valley). Desert landscape, extreme temperatures, and some of the most dramatic scenery in the country.

The Mountain West — Denver, Colorado, Wyoming, Montana. Big sky country; the Rockies; national parks on a scale that requires planning to appreciate.

The Midwest — Chicago and the Great Lakes region; generally overlooked by international visitors and generally underestimated.

Places we love

We travelled extensively in the USA. These are some of our favourites cities and places to visit. They are places we know and can recommend from experience.

Boston

The oldest major city in the United States, compact and walkable, with more history per square metre than anywhere else in the country. The Freedom Trail covers the highlights; Fenway Park covers the soul of it.

New York City

New York is the largest city in the USA and the most visited. New York City is not like anywhere else. That is not a cliché; it is a practical observation. The density, the energy, the sheer vertical mass of the place

Los Angeles

A sprawling, complex, and endlessly surprising city best understood by picking a neighbourhood and inhabiting it rather than attempting a tick-list tour.

San Diego

California’s most immediately pleasant city, with a year-round mild climate, excellent beaches, one of the world’s best zoos, and Tijuana a short tram ride away. Balboa Park alone warrants a full day.

New Orleans

New Orleans is a city that rewards time spent in it rather than moving through it, and the instinct to tick off the attractions should be resisted in favour of sitting in a bar on Frenchmen Street at midnight and letting it happen.

San Francisco

San Francisco is a city that stays with you. The neighbourhood variety is real: the Mission is not the Haight is not North Beach is not the Castro, and each has its own character, food culture, and street life.

San Antonio

Texas’s most historically layered city, where five UNESCO World Heritage Spanish colonial missions line the river south of downtown. The Alamo is the headline; the missions beyond it are the substance.

Seattle

A Pacific Northwest city of water, mountains, and excellent coffee, set between Puget Sound and the Cascades. Pike Place Market, the ferry to Bainbridge Island, and a day trip to Mount Rainier make up a compelling first visit.

Washington DC

The national capital and one of the best-value cities in the US, where the major museums, monuments, and galleries are free to enter. Allow a full day for the Smithsonian alone.

Nashville

Music City: the honky-tonks of Broadway, the Grand Ole Opry, the Ryman, and Southern cooking worth the trip on its own.

Las Vegas

A fantasy in the desert — the Strip after dark, and the gateway to the Grand Canyon, Hoover Dam, and the red-rock country.

Portland

A Pacific Northwest city of live oaks, independent bookshops, excellent food carts, and the largest urban forest in the United States.

Getting there and getting around

Major international gateways include New York (JFK, Newark), Los Angeles (LAX), San Francisco (SFO), Chicago (O’Hare), Miami, and Boston. Most international visitors arrive by air; internal travel is also primarily by air for any distance over 500 kilometres.

Rail travel exists but is limited — Amtrak serves a useful network in the Northeast Corridor (Washington–Philadelphia–New York–Boston) and has long-distance trains across the continent, but journey times are long and reliability is inconsistent. For city-to-city travel beyond the Northeast, flying is almost always faster.

Driving is the most flexible way to explore the country and, outside of major cities, the only practical option. The road network is extensive and well-maintained; petrol prices are low by international standards; and the American road trip is a genuine travel form in its own right. Hire cars are readily available at all major airports.

Public transport within cities varies enormously. New York’s subway is comprehensive and runs 24 hours. San Francisco’s BART and Muni network works well for most tourist needs. Many other American cities — including Los Angeles, Phoenix, and Miami — are primarily car-dependent, and getting around without a car is possible but inconvenient.

Entry Requirements

Citizens of most Western countries — including the UK, Australia, New Zealand, and EU member states — can enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program (VWP), which allows stays of up to 90 days for tourism or business. Before travelling, you must apply for an ESTA (Electronic System for Travel Authorization) at the US government’s official ESTA website (esta.cbp.dhs.gov). Apply at least 72 hours before departure; most applications are approved within minutes. ESTA approval costs US$21 and is valid for two years or until your passport expires, whichever comes first.

Citizens of countries not participating in the VWP (including India, China, and many others) require a B-2 tourist visa, applied for through the US Embassy or Consulate in their home country. Processing times vary; apply well in advance.

Even with a valid ESTA or visa, entry is at the discretion of the Customs and Border Protection officer on arrival. Have your accommodation details and a return or onward ticket ready.

Money and Costs

The United States dollar (USD) is accepted everywhere; other currencies are not. Credit and debit cards are widely accepted, including at small businesses, food trucks, and markets. Cash is useful for tips, small purchases, and occasional parking or toll situations.

Tipping is a social and economic expectation in the US, not optional. In restaurants, 18–20% of the pre-tax bill is standard; 15% is acceptable for basic service. Hotel housekeeping (USD$2–5 per night), taxis (15–20%), and hairdressers (15–20%) also carry tipping expectations. Services are often priced on the assumption that a tip will follow.

The US is an expensive country by international standards, though costs vary considerably by city. New York and San Francisco are among the most expensive; the South and Midwest are significantly more affordable.

Weather

The US climate varies as dramatically as its geography. In general terms:

Summer (June–August): Hot to very hot across most of the country; humid in the South and East; drier in the West. Best for the northern states and the Pacific Northwest.

Autumn (September–November): One of the best seasons in the Northeast and mid-Atlantic states; foliage colours peak in late October.

Winter (December–February): Severe in the Northeast and Midwest; mild in California, Florida, and the Southwest.

Spring (March–May): Reliable in California; unpredictable in the Northeast and South.

Travel Agents

For complex US itineraries — particularly fly-drives, road trips, or multi-state trips involving national park bookings — an UK-based travel agent specialising in the Americas can save significant time and often secure better rates than direct booking. These agents offer full ATOL protection, handle complex multi-centre itineraries, and can secure competitive rates on flights, hotels, and vehicle rentals.

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