Napier is one of those places that surprises visitors who arrive without expectations and delights those who know what they are coming for. A small city on Hawke’s Bay’s coastline, it was largely destroyed by a magnitude 7.8 earthquake on 3 February 1931 — one of New Zealand’s worst natural disasters, killing 256 people and levelling almost every building in the city. What replaced it, built quickly in the dominant architectural style of the early 1930s, was an almost entirely Art Deco city. Walking Napier’s streets today is unlike walking anywhere else in New Zealand — or anywhere else in the world.
The surrounding Hawke’s Bay region is one of New Zealand’s premier wine areas, known particularly for Bordeaux-style reds, Syrah, and Chardonnay. Coming to Napier without visiting at least one winery would be a significant oversight.
A Little Background
The Hawke’s Bay region has been home to Ngāti Kahungunu — one of the largest iwi in New Zealand — for many generations. The name Napier comes from General Charles Napier, a British military figure of the colonial era. European settlement of the bay began in earnest in the 1850s; Napier grew as a port town serving the agricultural hinterland.
The 1931 earthquake struck at 10:47am on a Tuesday morning, when the streets were full of people. The fires that followed burned for two days. The death toll would have been higher had many children not been outside for school sports. Reconstruction began almost immediately under a government relief scheme, and the decision to rebuild in the contemporary Art Deco style — practical as well as fashionable at the time — gave the city its distinctive character. Many of the buildings that replaced the rubble are now listed heritage structures.
What to See and Do
The Art Deco architecture is the reason most visitors come, and it repays close attention. The finest concentration is around Emerson Street and Tennyson Street in the city centre — the National Tobacco Company building, the Daily Telegraph building, the Masonic Hotel, and the Tom Parker Fountain are among the most photographed. The Art Deco Trust runs guided walking tours daily at 10am from the Art Deco Shop on Tennyson Street; self-guided audio tours are also available. The annual Art Deco Festival (held in February) draws visitors from across New Zealand and internationally.
Hawke’s Bay wineries are scattered through the region south and west of Napier. The area around Havelock North and the Tuki Tuki Valley is particularly good. Well-regarded estates include Craggy Range, Trinity Hill, Te Mata Estate, and Black Barn. Most offer cellar door tastings; some have restaurants. A self-drive winery tour is easily managed in a half-day; organised tours with transport are available from Napier if you prefer not to drive.
The Napier Waterfront runs along Marine Parade — a wide promenade along the beach, with the famous Norfolk Pines that were planted after the earthquake as part of the reconstruction. The National Aquarium of New Zealand is on the waterfront; so is a number of cafés and restaurants. The beach is a long shingle and sand stretch; swimming is possible but check conditions.
Te Mata Peak (399m) is a limestone ridge above Havelock North with panoramic views across Hawke’s Bay, the Tuki Tuki valley, and on clear days to the Kaweka Ranges. A sealed road to the summit makes it accessible to all; walking trails on the flanks suit various fitness levels. Free to visit; 20 minutes by road from Napier.
The Hawke’s Bay Museum (Napier) — known as MTG Hawke’s Bay — covers the region’s history including a significant collection related to the 1931 earthquake. The exhibition on the earthquake and subsequent rebuilding is the most compelling part. Admission is koha (donation-based).
Getting There
Napier is approximately 320 kilometres southeast of Auckland (around 3.5–4 hours by road) and 320 kilometres northeast of Wellington (around 4 hours). Hawke’s Bay Airport (NPE), 8 kilometres north of the city, has Air New Zealand connections to Auckland and Wellington. InterCity coaches serve Napier from both cities.
Cost and Hours
Many of Napier’s Art Deco attractions are free to observe from the street. The Art Deco Trust guided walk costs approximately NZ$30 per adult. Winery cellar door tastings are typically free or NZ$5–15 (sometimes refunded on purchase). Te Mata Peak is free. Budget a full day for the city and half a day for wineries — more if you want to explore the wider Hawke’s Bay region.