The West Highland Line: Glasgow to Fort William and Mallaig by Train

The route

The line has two parts. The main line runs north from Glasgow to Fort William and opened in 1894. The extension west from Fort William to Mallaig followed in 1901, to bring the fishing fleet’s catch to the cities.

Two things make the journey unusual. North of Bridge of Orchy the line parts from the road and crosses Rannoch Moor. The builders found no firm ground there, so they laid the track on a mat of turf and brushwood. And on the Mallaig extension they built in concrete, a new material at the time, including the 21 arches of the Glenfinnan Viaduct.

Trains from Glasgow carry two portions. At Crianlarich, after about an hour and three quarters, the train divides: one half goes to Oban, the other to Fort William and Mallaig. At Fort William the train reverses, so the side of the train you are sitting on swaps over for the run to the sea.

The moor has its stories. Robert Louis Stevenson sent David Balfour and Alan Breck across it, hunted by soldiers, in Kidnapped. In the film of Trainspotting four friends step off at Corrour and look out over the emptiness. And the Glenfinnan Viaduct carried the Hogwarts Express in the Harry Potter films.

What the rail journey is like

The morning train leaves Glasgow Queen Street just before half past eight. It follows the Clyde west past Dumbarton, then turns north and climbs above the Gare Loch and Loch Long, two sea lochs, with the water far below on the left. Beyond Arrochar it runs along the side of Loch Lomond, glimpsed through trees, and up Glen Falloch to Crianlarich. Here half the train is uncoupled and heads off to Oban.

The line climbs on past Tyndrum to the Horseshoe Curve, a great loop round the foot of Beinn Dorain. For a moment you can see the track ahead, across the valley. After Bridge of Orchy the trees thin out and the train comes onto Rannoch Moor. It is a blanket bog stretching flat and brown to every horizon, dotted with dark pools and boulders, with mountains far off around its edge. In winter it can lie under snow, and deer can sometimes be seen from the train.

At Corrour a sign marks the summit of the line, 1,347 feet up, and the train stops at a station with no public road to it. Then it drops past Loch Treig, through the narrow Monessie Gorge, and down to Fort William under Ben Nevis. Here the train reverses, and the last hour and a half begins.

West of Fort William the train crosses the Caledonian Canal and runs along the shore of Loch Eil. Then it curves onto the Glenfinnan Viaduct, high above the valley, with Loch Shiel and its lone monument away to the left. Beyond, it threads between rocky hills and small lochs to the sea at Arisaig, the most westerly station on the British rail network. On a clear day the islands of Eigg and Rùm stand offshore, and the sands at Morar shine white. The line ends at the harbour in Mallaig, among fishing boats and the ferry to Skye.

The stages

Times are rough and from the morning train. Sit on the left, facing forward, unless the table says otherwise.

Stops worth breaking the journey for

With three trains a day, plan each stop around the next one. An open return or two singles lets you break the journey; check the conditions when you book.

Arrochar and Tarbet

The station sits on a narrow neck of land between Loch Long, a sea loch, and Loch Lomond. Walk half a mile down to Tarbet pier for a boat on the loch, with Ben Lomond across the water, or along the path to Arrochar beneath the Cobbler.

Corrour

The summit of the line, with no public road for miles. Step off for a walk to Loch Ossian, a mile or so east, then catch a later train back or on. Check the times first: the train is the only way out. This is where the friends in Trainspotting got off.

Fort William

The town under Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain, and the natural place to spend the night. Walk up Glen Nevis, see the canal locks of Neptune’s Staircase at Banavie, and catch the morning train or the Jacobite on to Mallaig.

Glenfinnan

The viaduct and the head of Loch Shiel, where a monument marks the raising of the Jacobite standard in 1745. The station has a small museum and a dining car, and a trail leads up to the viewpoint over the viaduct.

Planning the journey

Which side should I sit on?

The left, facing forward, for most of the way north. It gives you the sea lochs, the Horseshoe Curve, Loch Treig and the Monessie Gorge, though Loch Lomond is partly on the right. After the reversal at Fort William, the left is best again, for Loch Eil and the curve of the Glenfinnan Viaduct. A reservation may not put you on the side you want, so take a free seat on the left if you can.

Should I ride the Jacobite or the ordinary train?

Ride the ordinary train for the whole line: only ScotRail runs from Glasgow, and its trains cross the same viaduct every day of the year. Add the Jacobite if you are in Fort William in summer and want steam, a stop at Glenfinnan and time in Mallaig. It sells out early, so book as soon as the season opens.

Which class should I book?

Standard: ScotRail’s trains on this line are standard class. If you travel with a bike, you must reserve a space. Some trains carry a Highland Explorer carriage with 20 bike racks; ScotRail shows which ones when you book. The Jacobite sells standard and first class.

How do I book, and what does it cost?

Book in the ScotRail app, on its website or at the station. Seat reservations are free with the ticket, and there are no peak fares in Scotland, so an Anytime ticket is valid all day. Fares vary with the date and how far ahead you book. In October 2026 a fare guide gave single fares from Glasgow starting at about £34; check the ScotRail site for the day you want. Cycle reservations are compulsory on this route. Interrail covers ScotRail and the Caledonian Sleeper.

Can I go there and back in a day?

Yes, but it is a long day: the 08:22 from Glasgow reaches Mallaig in the early afternoon, and the 16:05 back gets in late in the evening. You get about two and a half hours in Mallaig. A night in Fort William is better, splitting the line into a morning across the moor and a morning to the sea.

Can I carry on to Skye?

Yes, by ferry. CalMac sails from Mallaig to Armadale on Skye in about half an hour, five minutes’ walk from the station. In winter there are two sailings a day from Monday to Saturday and one on Sunday, and you must book, even on foot; check CalMac for the current timetable. If you come back from Skye by road, the route east over the Skye Bridge and through Glen Shiel is one we have driven, and it is spectacular.

Can I travel with a mobility need, or with luggage?

Yes, with help booked in advance: book Passenger Assist through ScotRail before you travel, because many stations on the line are small and unstaffed. Luggage space on these trains is limited, so pack light and board early with a large case.

If the journey breaks down

Network Rail closes parts of the line for engineering work. From 9 to 17 November 2026 buses replace trains between Crianlarich and Mallaig, and Rannoch and Corrour have no service at all. This closure ends on 17 November 2026. Snow and landslips can also stop trains in winter, and services are cut or stopped over Christmas and New Year. Check the ScotRail app on the morning you travel, and allow a buffer before a ferry or the sleeper.